Swarm Commander Premium Swarm Lure
Swarm Commander Premium Swarm Lure was created from a passion for making something good better. Our product is the total package when it comes to luring swarms of honey bees. Many swarm lures are simply made from lemongrass oil which will attract swarms of bees but isn’t the complete Nasanov formula.
Scott Derrick of Blythewood Bee Company worked in the fragrance and flavor manufacturing world for 18 years prior to becoming involved in beekeeping. “I’ve used the standard vials of swarm attractant before and found them substandard. I knew I could do better.”
Swarm Commander Premium Swarm Lure comes in various forms. The most popular is the two-ounce spray bottle sells for $29.95. Derrick says you should only spray two sprays on the bottom of your inner cover and one on the entrance every seven to 10 day for maximum effectiveness. The directions should be followed closely. Spraying too much in the hive can have the opposite effect and repel the bees from entering the hive. “Some people have put too much in the bait hive thinking it would help. It doesn’t. The swarm will mount under the bait hive.”
You can purchase Swarm Commander Super Lure from Blythewood Bee Company at www.blythewoodbeecompany.com. You can also call their retail store at 803-754-7577 or email Derrick at email@example.com.
ProVap 110 – Sideliner/Commercial Oxalic Acid Vaporizer
Finally, a FAST Sideliner/commercial Vaporizer at a reasonable price! We’re talking 20 seconds per hive. No wand to insert, just point and shoot. No guessing on dosage. No compressor or battery. Just plug it into an inexpensive inverter, generator or use house current. It’s 110 volts, 2.2 watts. This is the one you’ve waited for and now it’s here!
This vaporizer is most easily used from the back of the hive, where a small (1/4”) hole is drilled (3-4 inches up from the center of the bottom of the brood box) to accommodate the vaporizer stem. However, you can use it in the front entrances as well. Using a hole in the back of the hive (we believe) is easiest as it eliminates the nuisance of flying bees. The friction between the stem and drilled hole holds the vaporizer in place during vaporization, which allows you time to prepare the next dose. The bees will readily propolize this small hole. To vaporize from the front of the hive, simply take a paint stick, cut it to the desired length and drill a ¼” hole in the center of the paint stick. Slide the stick over the stem and you have an effective vapor block. Connect the vaporizer to your 110 volt power source. It will take approximately 2 minutes to reach operating temperature. The red sequence readout will display 230 when ready.
In the white plastic lids (recess side up) place the appropriate amount of OA. Do NOT pack the OA in the lid; rather place it loosely. Use one gram per brood chamber no matter the size be it mediums or deeps, eight or ten frame. Use ½ gram on a nuc. One gram is almost ¼ teaspoon, so on a two brood chamber hive; you would use ½ a teaspoon. Invert the vaporizer. Take the white plastic lid containing the OA and push it onto the bowl (be careful the vaporizer bowl is very HOT!) Place the still inverted vaporizer stem (with lid attached) into the drilled hole then turn the vaporizer right side up and tap the lid. The acid will fall into the bowl and start to vaporize. This will cause the temperature to drop to approximately 210-215 then very quickly start to rise. When it again reaches 230, it is finished vaporizing and you can move on to the next hive. This will take approximately 20 seconds! You need to seal any openings during and 10 minutes after vaporization.
You must use a respirator that is rated for organic acids! Make sure you buy one with replaceable filters. You are going to work in a heavy OA environment. Heavy, heat resistant gauntlet gloves are a must as well.
Want to see it in action?
Ultimate IPM Bottom Board System
Discover the most versatile, user friendly easy-to-use Universal IPM Bottom Board System.
With Landing Board, and modular combination entrance Reducer/Mouse Guards, stainless mesh and Inspection Board plus optional Robbing Screen to make it easier to keep happier and healthier bees.
- The only complete IPM Bottom Board System available.
- Standard model is for 10-frame boxes with optional 8-frame adapters
- Works great and looks fantastic with Ultimate Hive Stand and/or Ultimate Hive Cover
- Includes reversible Entrance Reducers/Mouse Guards for 3 opening functions
- Security Pins keep boxes from moving
- Smooth edge design. No sharp corners
- Universal soft white color looks great with any color hive bodies and supers. Matches Ultimate Hive Cover
- Includes slide out Inspection Board
- Self-draining design prevents build-up of water
- Rounded inner corners restrict hiding places for small hive beetles
- Embedded Stainless Steel Mesh for long life and resistance to organic acids
- Textured and angled landing board for drainage and easier landing
- Optional ventilated winter board minimizes drafts and controls humidity
- Includes notches for hives straps for hassle free moving
- Ultra-tough Technopolymer construction will not rot or decay like wood
- Resists sticking from propolis. Never needs painting. Virtually maintenance free
- No assembly required – ready to use
- Made in USA. Completely recyclable. No BPA.
For happier, healthier bees,
Bee Smart Designs
800-600-7446 • 516-741-3062 • FAX: 516-742-3617
New Winter Reading
The Boy Scout, The Beekeeper and The Bees, by Terry R. Combs published by Outskirts Press, Inc. ISBN 9781478761600. 7.4” x 9.7”, 277 pgs. Black & White Paperback available at Amazon and Barnes & Noble and www.outskirtspress.com/theboyscoutthebeekeeperandthebees $29.95.
If you’ve always wanted to start beekeeping but didn’t know where to begin, this is the book for you. There’s good information about how to start beekeeping, and how to expand and refine your craft. Based on the solid protocol of the Boy Scouts of America Beekeeping Merit Badge, this guide takes you through many levels of beekeeping. Whether you’re interested in producing honey, helping the environment, or investing in a fascinating and rewarding hobby.
This book is about telling as it has minimal photos. But the telling is instructive without lots of graphics, and covers the basics of getting started, your first year and beyond, pests, predators and diseases and good management. Good info on all the basics, and strong arguments for facts over suppositions and beliefs. A good epilog on not using chemicals, local bees, using standard equipment, and a caution to big chemical, big government and big ag about the role of beekeeping on the planet. It finishes with a good reference list and a strong glossary. This isn’t the only book on beekeeping you need, but it’s one of them.